Searching for the soul of the city
The CAC and other Urban Projects in Valencia, Spain
By David O'Connor
08-08-2006 /views: 905 in past 12 months.
Imagine being surrounded by the Pompidou Centre, the Sydney Opera House, the Bilbao Guggenheim and the London Eye all in the one beautiful place and miraculously blended into a single coherent array of architecture and form. That is no less than how it feels to walk through the Ciutat los Artes et Ciences (CAC) at the Turia Gardens in Valencia.
![]() And most incredibly of all, each of these structures is the brainchild of a single person: Santiago Calatrava. Calatrava, best known for his bridge designs, is something of a celebrity architect. Calatrava seems to have reached that rare elevated status in architecture where his designs are international in standing and cities seek him out for the prestige his name bestows on projects. Daniel Liebeskind, Norman Foster and Frank O. Gehry are a few other designers that have joined this elite club. But Calatrava hails from Valencia and there is no doubt that he is one prophet that has been accepted in his own land. And it looks like he has returned the compliment with dividends. A visit to the CAC makes a visitor wonder that a single imagination can encompass so much. ![]() If there is a sense of astonishment to the area, it is matched by an equal sense of magic. The Turia Gardens are a unique urban park that is in fact the dried-up river bed of the Rio Turia (Turia River) that once swept a graceful meandering path around the heart of Valencia’s old city. In times past the city fathers diverted the course of the river to feed an irrigation system to what remains one of the most plentiful market garden regions in Europe. A monument to the Spanish conquest of water, the riverbed park is akin to a string-like Central Park or Hyde Park with a mixture of sports grounds, leisurely parks, sculpture gardens and children’s playgrounds along its narrow but lengthy course. At the apex of the gardens, where once the river would have flowed gently into the sea in a broad-arched mouth, is situated the CAC. Like la Defense in Paris, one is drawn to the place by the helmet-like structure of the Palau de les Reina Sofia that pokes its head above the lush canopy of the Gardens. This building must take on the Guggenheim in imagination and the Sydney Opera House in theatrical spectacle. To catch a first glimpse of the building and then to wander in its direction is a genuine jaw dropping experience. The structure is a concert of terraces, sun-drenched smooth white surfaces and an original and eye-catching form. Enveloping the complex design is a palm-like canopy that seems to hover gently above, almost without touching the building. The building is not quite finished yet, but not minding that its project targets were exceeded, the city politicians held an opening ceremony anyway. When it opens proper it aims to provide the city with a cultural centre of international standing. The centre has four halls of varying sizes: the Main Hall, the Amphitheatre, Master Room and the Chamber Theatre. The CAC contains much for its community besides impressive architecture. The Museu de les Ciences and Oceanografic buzz with visitors and are popular attractions, both educational and entertaining. Next to them sits the Hemisferic, an Imax cinemascope in the shape of a human eye: gimmicky but cool. The planning of the CAC included attractive and imaginatively landscaped gardens. These include shallow channels of clear water that act as a reminder of the riverbed that the area once was. With palm trees and sculpture gardens the Mediterranean atmosphere is pleasant and calming. At any time of the day the gardens seem well populated with runners, walkers, tourists and schoolchildren. Enough certainly to make the place seem inhabited, active and safe. Surrounding the CAC are dense, urban, high-rise accommodation blocks typical of Spanish cities. The CAC provides a pretty impressive amenity for these communities, which seem pleasant and lively neighbourhoods. This contrasts to northern European cities where such densities are normally synonymous with social housing and relative deprivation. Much more is planned for the wider area surrounding the CAC. Adjacent to the Turia Gardens where the CAC is located is situated a large area of industrial decay, named el Grau. The City of Valencia has earmarked this place for a massive urban regeneration project with plans for 25,000 houses and town centre facilities. Beyond that again, at the very point where the Turia River would have entered the sea are plans for two matching skyscrapers. These are planned to be spiralling pillars much like the Malmo towers or the planned U2 tower in Dublin Docklands. To be designed by, guess who? Calatrava of course. Almost competing for attention with all of this (and, possibly each other) are the nearby Port America’s Cup and the Heineken Greenspace project. Valencia won a high-profile bidding battle to become the first Mediterranean city to host the America’s Cup, the world’s largest sailing competition and also the oldest contested trophy in sporting history. Valencia won out thanks to its favourable weather conditions and enthusiastic and proactive bidding team. But the plans for the creation of a dedicated tournament venue and regenerated harbour did no harm to the bidding chances. Next-door, the Heineken Greenspace project imaginatively combines urban regeneration and culture to create a new destination in a formerly derelict area. With all of this urban activity nearby, the CAC acts as an anchor and a catalyst for positive urban regeneration and cultural dynamism. Valencia is easily one of the more exciting and up-and-coming cities in Spain if not Europe and what more impressive symbol than the CAC. |
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